Mrs. James J. Hill's Impressions of Paris, May, 1900
Tuesday, May 15
A lovely morning. We went quite a ways on our morning walk. (VOICES IN PASSING, FRENCH) Went to Mass at the Madeleine and drove to the Exposition Buildings (HORSES HOOVES, CARRIAGE) - Went through the Swedish Building and the Spanish Building and looked at the tapestries ---- Went to Monaco Building - not much there. Saw things from Tibet -----We were delighted to see that America takes a prominent place well in the front in much- We chanced to see the St. Paul Exhibit of wire grass products. Exhibits of flowers and of American fruits specifically apples. Papa seems content and interested. (SUNG) He and Clara and Ruth and Gertrude went to the flower market and came back with lovely blossoms and apples-
We saw such great crowds in the distance -Mrs. Tuck told us of a bomb thrower having been blown up himself in the Madalaine today. Today's letters reported all well at home.
The girls went to a matinee. (FOOTSTEPS, SS GIRL VOICE, OFF, AND DOOR CLOSE) Papa and I spent the afternoon in the Grand Palais it is filled with statues and pictures - and is immense in size. We thought some of our American artists correspond formally with others of this time.
A heavy rain at 5 p.m. (THUNDER, LIGHTNING)
King Oscar of Sweden and Norway drove by tonight on way to dinner. (TR SWEDISH)
In the evening Papa and I dined at Mrs. Tucks with a Mr. Paris and a Mr. Peabody of Boston and an old gentleman. (HUBBUB OF DINNER TABLE VOICES, CORK AND POP) Also a Miss-Glidden of Boston and Mrs. Whelan and her daughters. (SS GIRLISH LAUGHTER)
The dinner was most formal and elaborate but pleasant.
Wednesday, May 16
A lovely bright morning - - A bronchial irritation troubled me all night. (SS COUGHING, THROAT CLEARING) Why I know not for the weather was perfect the last two days -
Gertrude and I went to Mass at the English Church here - (TR PRIEST CHANTING, OFF)
(SUNG) We all went by Coach to Versailles this morning and had the most delightful drive through charming country.
(FOOTSTEPS) The Palace is certainly the remains of elegant extravagance but we were all more enchanted by the parks and gardens than by the palaces - Partial eclipse of the sun here today - We went to the Exposition in the afternoon (HORSE HOOVES, CARRIAGE, MOTOR CAR IN PASSING, VOICES) ----- The Indo China pavillion was a wonderful exhibit of coral and inlaid marble - At Russian Exhibits we saw the Tsarina's collection of Easter eggs very valuable and unique. Papa went to London this evening by way of Boulogne - (TRAIN WHISTLE) -- I have a distressing headache. I wish Papa could have stayed with us or I have gone with him.
Thursday, May 17
Went to mass to the Madeleine this morning had to leave on account of coughing so from throat irritation. (SS COUGHING) This morning we drove out to Pere Lachaise. (HORSE HOOVES, CARRIAGE) What a city of the dead that is!
We got a fine view of the new church of Montmartre from a high hill ---Rachel, Gertrude, Mrs. Selmer and I went to Notre Dame - .(ORGAN) Then the Palais of Justice - and the Conciergerie and saw the little cell where Marie Antoinette was imprisoned - (SS COUGH) I got nervous about my cough and sent for Dr. Clarke. He told me he lived at Fort Snelling 44 years ago, his father commanded there. Girls were busy one way or other - (SS GIRLISH LAUGHTER, OFF, RUNNING FOOTSTEPS)
(SUNG) After lunch Rachel and I went to see Napoleon's Tomb ----- the glorious sunlight streaming through yellow stained glass windows.
In the late afternoon we all went to the sculptress Miss Enid Yarndell's Studio to see a mountain she is doing - (LIGHT HAMMERING ON METAL) It is going to be in Bronze and beautiful. Went to Vespers at Notre Dame - its organ is immense, the mass was very grand. -(TR PRIEST, ORGAN) Paris seems very crowded today. (MOTORCAR PASSING, VOICES) No word from Papa since he left - I wrote to him last evening - Mr. Tuck was not looking very well - Just after dinner heard an explosion near us - at 8:45 - (BOMB) Later Mr. Tuck came in and told us it was a bomb on the street. No one was hurt fortunately.
Friday, May 18
A cloudy wet morning - It was well to have some knitting to do. This morning spent waiting for dressmakers and being fitted - (SS FRENCH MURMURS) and then being photographed in a group, (TR FRENCH PHOTOGRAPHER) the girls and I. How embarrassing it is to be placed for a photo and to be told to look pleasant. One feels foolish and often looks so. (POP OF FLASH CAMERA) We are all disappointed that no letters came yesterday. -
Went to the galleries of the Louvre (FOOTSTEPS WITH REVERB) spent four hours looking at various masters of many schools . We went in to the Notre Dame cathedral and into the Madeleine. A crowd there were looking at the place where the bomb exploded and killed the anarchist. (CROWD MURMURS) Yesterday's paper reports summer heat 92 at Chicago, St. Paul and Omaha. Letters from Papa from London In the late afternoon a heavy rain storm come on suddenly - (THUNDER, LIGHTNING)
Ruth and I spent a quiet evening - The others went to the theatre. I listened to opera on the radio telephone and heard distinctly the different singers (TINNY OPERA SINGER ON PHONE LINE)
Saturday, May 19, 1900 - Paris
Beautiful morning - fine air -(BIRDS) Mustard and remedies have done their works nice. (SS DEEP BREATH) I am much better this morning though we are all very tired. We have finished all our errands - and are all leaving with more knowledge of France than when we came - We know Paris and the Parisians better too - We admire much that is here for the people. Took the train for London at 9:30 a.m. -(TRAIN WHISTLE)
(SUNG) Arrived at station and attended to everything without any difficulty. - We crossed the channel without discomfort and were so grateful- No trouble with luggage or with customs. Arrived at Brown's hotel for supper.
Papa was there to greet us.